Rengaya

When Rengaya opened in North Sydney in 1993, Japanese yakiniku was virtually unknown outside Japan. Thirty-plus years later, it remains the standard against which Sydney diners measure the genre. The restaurant's longevity is built on the straightforward proposition that the best Japanese barbecue requires the best meat, the best charcoal, and a chef who knows how to buy fish at 5am. Chef Yamada grew up in Nagoya — home of hitsumabushi, the multi-stage eel ritual that teaches you to pay attention to flavour progression — before spending time in kitchens across the US, Canada, and Singapore before arriving at Rengaya. Premium Wagyu assortments, fresh-shucked sashimi selections, and house-cut Wagyu yukke (steak tartare) are the pillars of a menu that has changed less than most because it was right to begin with. The restaurant recently moved to a striking new space on Miller Street while retaining its loyal Japanese and local clientele.